11 of the best things to do in Split, Croatia

Located around 200km (124 miles) northwest of Dubrovnik on the Dalmatian coast, the Croatian city of Split is often overshadowed by its glamorous neighbor. But once you've wandered Split's enchanting Roman old town, lingered over a coffee on its sunny waterside promenade and ventured into its beautiful surrounds, you might find yourself agreeing with the locals (known as Splićani), who describe their city as "the most beautiful in the world."

From learning about ancient history in Diocletian's Palace to joining the local cafe culture, here's our pick of the very best experiences in Split.

1. Explore Diocletian's Palace

Imagine this: you're the ruler of a vast empire, covering most of Europe. You're planning to retire and escape the limelight – where would you build your palace? Roman Emperor Diocletian chose this site, overlooking the Adriatic. Entered through four arched gateways, this vast 3rd-century palace now shelters Split's old town. It centers on the Peristil, a monumental square lined by marble columns, where Diocletian would have made his public appearances. The Peristil is overlooked by Diocletian's octagonal mausoleum, now the Cathedral of St Domnius – you can climb the elegant bell-tower, for dizzying views down into the old town.

Local tip: To understand better the layout of the palace, take a private guided tour. Through the centuries, Gothic, Renaissance and baroque buildings have been added and obscured the original Roman plan, creating an architectural labyrinth.

2. Eat authentic Dalmatian seafood

Apparently Diocletian was fond of fish, as are most Dalmatians – in the past, meat was rare, and locals lived mainly on sardines and seasonal vegetables. To try genuine traditional Dalmatian cuisine, visit old-fashioned Konoba Varoš, which serves excellent grilled fresh fish, and octopus prepared ispod peke (slow-cooked under a metal dome, buried in glowing embers). For something more homely, call at Villa Spiza. The menu here changes daily depending on what the owner-chef finds fresh at the market that morning – look out for gregada (a fish casserole originating from Hvar). Or, to really get down to basics, lunch on deep-fried whitebait at canteen-style Zlatna Ribica opposite the covered fish market.

Local tip: For something different, Bota Šare uses freshly-caught Adriatic fish to create tasty sushi, and offers oysters, delivered fresh daily from Mali Ston, served raw with a squeeze of lemon.

3. Visit the Meštrović Gallery 

From the old town, a 20-minute walk west along the coast brings you to this impressive 1930's villa, built as a summer home for Croatia's greatest modern sculptor, Ivan Meštrović. Set in a blissful garden, it's now used to exhibit his sculptures, in wood, marble and bronze, both indoors and out. The entrance ticket is also valid for Kaštelet (a 5-minute walk away), a 16th-century fortified home bought and restored by Meštrović to house his cycle of New Testament bas-relief wood carvings.

Local tip: You can see several of Meštrović's sculptures around town. Best known is the imposing statue of 10th-century bishop Grgur Ninski, immediately outside the Zlatna Vrata (Golden Gate). Locals say that touching his big toe brings good luck.

4. Swim and sunbathe on Bačvice beach

Split is one of those great cities where you can swim before breakfast, if the mood takes you. The town beach, an arc of sand overlooking shallow sea in Bačvice bay, has been an official bathing establishment since 1891. It's south facing and sheltered, so the water is warm enough to swim most of the year, and it has a Blue Flag for cleanliness. Locals come here for a round of picigin, an energetic game, unique to Split, played with a small ball in the shallows.

Local tip: Above the beach, Žbirac cafe has a leafy terrace, making a fine place for coffee or chilled beer, with views over the bay towards the island of Brač. 

5. Drink coffee with the locals

Meeting na kavu (for coffee) is a major pastime in Split. Cafes are always full, and you might wonder whether anyone does any work, apart from the waiters. The prime spot is the palm-lined Riva (seafront promenade), where tables overlook the Adriatic sea and it's sunny enough to sit out almost all year. In the old town, you can drink your coffee Roman-style at Luxor, sitting on red cushions on the steps of the Peristil. For hip specialty coffee, but no outdoor seating, try D16 Coffee in the old town, or 4 Coffee near the pazar (open-air market).

Local tip: To fit in with Splićani, don your coolest sunglasses for sitting out.

6. Catch an open-air live music performance

What better way to spend a balmy summer evening than attending an open-air concert? There's a stage on the Riva practically all year, hosting local rock and pop bands. During the Split Summer Festival you'll also be treated to extravagant opera performances on the Peristil (the highlight is Verdi's Aida) and classical music and jazz in the gardens of Sustipan and in the courtyard at Mestrović's Kaštelet. And in the old town, remember to check out what's happening in the Vestibul – if you're lucky you might find a group singing traditional Dalmatian klapa (similar to church-choir singing). 

7. Hike across Marjan peninsula

West of town, Marjan is a 3.5km-long (2.2-mile) peninsula and a protected nature park. With sea on three sides, and fantastic views over the islands, its rocky slopes are planted with Aleppo pines, cypresses, exotic agave and yellow-flowering broom. It's criss-crossed by paths, taking you from the 13th-century Church of St Nicholas, past a cliffside hermitage, to Bene, on the western tip. To reach it, climb 100 steps up Senjska street, through Varoš, to Vidilica Cafe. From here, the gateway to Marjan, you also have stunning views down onto town.

Planning tip: Bus #12 runs between Sv Frane (St Francis Church) on the seafront and Bene several times daily.

8. Shop for funky clothing and accessories by Croatian designers

Original clothing created by up-and-coming Croatian designers is popular with the stylish women of Split. At Krug, four young female designers display their labels, Dott and Chicks on Chic. Garments, inspired by elegant vintage clothing, are made in small batches from natural materials, while Little Wonder handmade jewelry features silver and gold-plated brass decorated with semi-precious stones  and freshwater pearls. Next door, More eco-souvenir store specializes in one-off T-shirts and Tote bags, plus some lovely handmade ceramics. Nearby, tiny Arterija stocks its own line of avant-garde clothing in silky viscose, plus loose hanging "deconstructed knitwear" by Unaesthetik.

9. Catch a ferry or catamaran to a nearby island

The quintessential Split experience has to be hopping on a boat to one of the pine-scented Dalmatian islands – the port lies directly in from of the old town. The ferries are slower but cheaper, and more fun as you can sit up on the deck in the sun – look out for dolphins. In contrast, catamarans are faster and more expensive, and you have to stay inside. A favorite day-trip is a catamaran to Hvar Town, renowned for its Venetian-era harbor overlooked by an elegant baroque cathedral and a hilltop castle, and rimmed by classy seafood restaurants. If swimming and water sports are your thing, head for Bol on Brač, Croatia's top windsurf destination and home to the stunning Zlatni Rat beach. You can reach Bol direct from Split by catamaran, or take the ferry to Supetar then the bus across the island to Bol on the south coast.

10. Taste quality Croatian wines

Dalmatia produces some excellent wines, notably red plavac (the best comes from Pelješac peninsula), and white pošip (from Korčula) and debit (from the Šibenik area). In the old town, Zinfandel Food & Wine Bar does set-menu wine flights accompanied by optional platters of Dalmatian cheeses and cured meats. It also serves full meals featuring creative Mediterranean fare and has a cellar stocked with over 100 different bottled wines. Near Bačvice beach, Botiglia Wine & Deli is a stylish wine bar offering guided tasting with a sommelier, as well as wine by the bottle or glass, accompanied by tasty seafood-based snacks. In Radunica, informal Kitchen & Wine Bar A'E has both a restaurant and a wine tasting room, with tables out front on a peaceful pedestrian alley – guided wine tasting flights are available on request.

11. Discover modern Croatian artists at the Gallery of Fine Art

Travel through the centuries, from the 1400s to the present, tracing the evolution of Croatian art at Split's Gallery of Fine Art. The exhibition opens with Old Masters and concludes with contemporary video installations. See how different artists depicted Dalmatia – the moody seascapes of Emanuel Vidović, village scenes in deep vibrant Mediterranean colors by Ignjat Job (Croatia's answer to Van Gogh) and big abstract canvasses by Edo Murtić. You'll also see several well-known foreign artists, including Egon Schiele and George Grosz. The ground floor hosts temporary exhibitions, often thought-proving conceptual works. Take a break in the adjoining cafe in a walled garden.

Local tip: Opposite the Gallery of Fine Art, the tiny Galerija Kula hosts temporary exhibitions. Some well-known international names have featured here, such as British sculptors Tony Cragg and Richard Deacon.